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UK Adventure: Separated by a common language

Posted Tuesday, July 17, 2007, at 9:17 AM

(Photo)
A view of the city, atop Edinburgh Castle - Edinburgh, Scotland.

(Note: I'm on vacation and four-thousand miles from home. The following is not a sports-related blog. Regular blogging will resume next week.)

On a Saturday night in Edinburgh, it is abundantly clear what the phrase "two peoples separated by a common language" means. I'm speaking with a young Scottish gentleman wearing a T-shirt that reads "If found, please return to the nearest pub."

It turns out we're standing just outside a pub, so he doesn't far to travel. Judging by his demeanor, I'm guessing he's already been inside one or two…or twenty. He's trying to tell me something. I have no idea what it is. When you can only understand about one word in 10, it's hard to get details.

Edinburgh is a popular place on this evening. I count at at least 8 groups participating on what they call "hen" or "stag" parties (what we would call bachelor or bachelorette parties). Judging by their coordinated outfits and occasional costumes, they take these events seriously.

All day and night long, we spot these groups along crowded sidewalks or inside the pubs. Scotland's capital city has a population of close to a half-million. And every one of its residents seems to be outside on this day. The sidewalks are as crowded as Times Square in New York or the strip in Las Vegas.

The weatherman must have a difficult time here. Cloudy? Rainy? Windy? Sunny and clear? Yes, to all of the above. And that's in a time span of a few hours.

On Sunday, we took a train down to Stirling, home of the William Wallace Monument. The hero of Scotland has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity in recent years thanks to the movie "Braveheart." But as the locals and the tour guides are quick to point out, the movie is only loosely based Wallace's life.

Back in Edinburgh on Sunday night, we discover the city has a thriving Polish population. Our waitress is from Poland -- been in Edinburgh all of two weeks. She tells us there are so many ex-pats here from her country, that all the banks have printed instructions in Polish on how to open an account.

Monday is a day with more pubs, another castle and a night-time visit to a haunted graveyard. During the trip, our guide points out the room where J.K. Rowling wrote much of the first "Harry Potter." It's a building just outside the graveyard walls. There's quite a literary tradition here. Charles Dickens got his inspiration for Ebeneezer Scrooge from an Edinburgh grave. Robert Louis Stevenson was from here.

Alexander Graham Bell, the inventor of the telephone, was born here. There are many other writers, inventors and famous people here with ties to Edinburgh and Scotland. Here's a book that captures a lot of that history.

A few other observations:

  • I haven't been to the UK in a few years. The hotels haven't changed. Small beds, small rooms and tiny elevators.

  • "Fair trade" coffee is an issue here. I haven't seen the signs in any U.S. coffee shops but there all over the place in this town.

  • The exchange rate is brutal for US travelers. At our hotel, you had to give $2.20 to get one British pound.

  • I had never realized the extent of the centuries-long wars and tension that exists to this day between England and Scotland. At the William Wallace Monument, when the tour guide spoke of a Scotland free from English oppression, the Scots in the crowd cheered and clapped. On the side of a building in Edinburgh, a graffiti scrawled inscription read, "End London Rule."

    With three days left on the trip and an excursion to Northern England on the agenda, here are a few travel stats:

  • Number of McDonald's spotted in the neighborhood around our Edinburgh hotel: two

  • Number of Starbucks spotted in same area: four

  • Number of castles visited: two

  • Average number of pubs visited per day: four-and-half

  • Number of attempts at eating haggis: zero

  • Details I won't be sharing with U.S. customs agents: one

  • Comments
    Showing comments in chronological order
    [Show most recent comments first]

    There is a interesting debate that has been going on in British Parliment regarding the Scottland issue. I think it goes something like that since Scottland has thier own parliment that they shouldn't be also represented in the British parliment, or shouldn't be allowed to vote on issues concerning only England, in the House of Commons, since English MP's are not allowed to vote on Scottish affairs, or something kind of like that..

    -- Posted by semoredhawk on Tue, Jul 17, 2007, at 11:31 AM

    Here's a baseball angle to keep your post legit.

    Bobby Thomson was born in Glasgow.

    If you get over there, maybe you could ask a local pubber how to get to his birthplace. If nothing else, your explanation of the "Shot Heard 'Round the World" would probably spark a fairly interesting conversation, especially after a few Orkney Skullsplitters.

    -- Posted by unclegrubworm on Tue, Jul 17, 2007, at 1:08 PM

    What are you thinking exchanging money at the hotel? TIP to travelers -- ATM!

    Has anyone else noticed that the exchange rate is usually better in years that Eastern Conference Teams win the NBA CHampionship? (Only talking about the Euro & Pound...)

    -- Posted by Professor_Bubba on Wed, Jul 18, 2007, at 4:32 AM
    Mike Mitchell's response:
    I actually didn't exchange any money at the hotel - but did notice the signs there . I did do all of mine at the ATM machine, but their fees add up as well. By the time you figure in their charges and currency conversion fees - it would cost 6 to 8 bucks to get out a few hundred pounds.

    The Eastern Conference exchange rate theory is not one I've heard before.

    From the headline I thought this was going to be about the University of Kentucky...Oh well, have a good trip anyway. LOL

    -- Posted by CapeRacer on Wed, Jul 18, 2007, at 9:20 AM


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